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13 July: Cambria
With my mother safely ensconsed in her apartment and
settling into her own routine again, we restarted our trip on Sunday
the 13th. We left from Pasadena this time and, on Frank's fine recommendation,
aimed for Cambria, another resort town on the coast and just north
of Moro Bay (where we'd been earlier in the week). A highlight of
this part of our trip came the next day
when, based on Pat's memory, we were able to contact friends from
long ago and visit with them. But this page is based on the calendar
date
Path
Rather than repeat our previous path, we chose--again,
at Frank's suggestion--to drive up the central valley of California
and cut west to the coast. The path took us along Interstate 210,
connecting to Interstate 5 to leave LA (with the climb over the
Grapevine--probably last traversed by Pat and me in 1973 when we
moved from Pasadena to Eugene for my graduate studies), to CA 46.
We then took 46 (the road on which James Dean died) west through
the wine country of California's Central Coast (no stops; save this
for a later trip!) around Paso Robles, right out to the coast, and
(via a bit of CA 1) into Cambria.
Sights
Before
going to dinner, we decided to take a brief walk along the beach,
accompanied by a few hundred other people who apparently had similar
thoughts (notes the footprints in the sand in the accompanying photo;
in fact, I had to use the sandy mass at the left to shield from
our camera's view several young people frolicking on the rocks at
the left).
When we were taking this photo and others similar to
it, it was probably the first time on this trip that one of our
standing quips arose. It's very simple and goes like this: "Rocks
and water." That's all either of us has to say to arouse amusement
in the other. People who are familiar with each other often seem
to have catch phrases that communicate a lot more than the words
themselves; the history of the use of the phrase, I suppose, carries
lots of connotations that have been refined from repeated sharing
of it. In this case, "rocks and water" came from one of
Pat's experiences (Pat can explain the history of the quip, if she
wishes) but has sunk into our repertoire. It is repeated just about
any time that three things converge: rocks, water, and camera.
The
rocks-and-water theme continued when we went for a walk after dinner.
The situation allowed us to recapture a hint of our experience earlier
in the week when we had been in Moro Bay. Although there was
not the dramatic Moro Rock to provide a setting for the setting
sun, Pat was able to capture another sunset over waters associated
with the Pacific. She actually has a series
of several shots from later in the evening.
Food
We found a place to stay along the narrow strip of
beachfront that is between CA 1 and the Pacific. Among the myriad
choices that line what I think is called the Moonstone Beach area,
we slipped into the Fogcatcher
Inn and were able to secure the last of the rooms with a full
ocean view. It was spacious, second-floor room with copious windows
on--you guessed it--the side that faced the beach. We could see
the narrow strip of business road, the boardwalk, the beach, and
the ocean without obstruction.
Following the recommendation of the person who checked
us into the Fogcatcher, we chose to eat at Sea Chest Oyster Bar
and Seafood Restaurant (6216 Moonstone Beach Dr.; 805-927-4514, but don't call for reservations
as Sea Chest doesn't take them--a line forms beginning about 5 or 5:30; no credit cards). I had steamed, green-lip mussels
(several of which were as large as the mussels we had years ago
in Provincetown, MA) a and a nicely broiled piece of opah (not an
easy fish too cook properly, in my experience). Pat had a scallops
apetizer as her meal and they were well prepared, too. The wine
list featured not just local products but other good ones. Try this
place.
Bird
The White Bird behaved just fabulously. On the Interstate,
it was smooth and easy. On windy, narrow roads, it acted liked it
was on tracks, cornering flatly and staying precisely on the lines
I chose. I was getting a hint, however, that it rarely saw a gas
pump to which it didn't want to pay a visit. I must read the specifications
for the tank size and milage estimates. Even though the instruments
offer two odometers, I wasn't keeping odometer readings that would
allow me to calculate milage. Maybe later.
Birds
On the highway we saw a couple of buteo-like birds
and a falconidae (looked like a kestril). Of course, there were
the ubiquitous ones (pigeons, crows, mockingbirds, etc.).
Along the beach, we saw pelagic birds (gulls, pelicans, cormorants) as well as plenty of smaller birds among the bushes and trees.
Tunes
Somewhere around here I got better with managing the
iPod-iTrip-radio combination. I settled on having the iTrip software
localcast on multiple frequencies and then sending the seek function
of the radio to find something familiar sounding. It was clear that
the iTrip device's utility was inversely related to the number of
FM broadcasts in the area. More broadcasts meant fewer available
frequencies over which I could have the Bird's radio receive the
iTrip localcast.
Runs
My run on the 13th in Pasadena before we left was 22:58
and I was weak. I was still feeling sort of peaked (interesting word), I thought, from the illness of June, which had taken me off the roads almost entirely for most of three weeks. I needed to remind myself that one comes back gradually.
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